Skrive blok, in Danish means, "witting pad". This could describe any blog, but since mine originally began as a means to write about Steve and I working in Greenland, It has since morphed into being about me, writing about being. Whether we are here or there, skiing or growing food or making some-things out of no-things, this is my humble attempt at being a writer. An exercise for my mind. A bunch or words. A Skrive Blok.

Thursday, April 30, 2009

Facts

This picture shows me standing in the middle of the ski way at summit station on the Greenland ice cap. The reason it is called a ski way rather than a runway is obvious if you really think a little about physics and airplanes, verses snow and cement. You can see the flags vanishing to a point in the distance. The point in the distance is less than 3 miles behind me. This picture was shot on a calm day in the fall. I would say the ambient temperature was around -20 F, or even warmer, because I am not wearing a neck gaiter or my big- issued, down parka. The down parkas we are issued, weigh about 12 pounds new and cost over 800 dollars. I have a radio in my back pack along with a thermos of hot water, snickers bars (which have already frozen into jaw breakers). Steve took the picture, so someone is with me. Further more, other people know that Steve and I had set off for a hike.
Mexico covers 756,006 square miles of land. The ice cap of Greenland- covering five sixths of the worlds largest island, is roughly the same size as Mexico; since Greenland's total land mass is 840, 003 square miles.
Imagine yourself now being lost on this ice cap in a blizzard. You cannot think about the blizzards you have seen in Michigan or Connecticut or Maine, because in fimiliar contexts, your imagination will be biased: you might be traveling home from Christmas caroling with a church group, you might be out on the side walk shoveling- everything is still near and the lights can be seen, motors heard, your chances of dieing are nil. It would be better for you to try and imagine being lost at sea in a fog in the arctic in a skiff that has run out of gas. You didn't tell anyone where you were going-which doesn't matter since you are not where you were going. You are lost. You don't have a radio or a flare or a tent or even an issued parka.
The temperature is well below freezing. It is minus 35 F. The wind is blowing a gale. The only navigational aids are flags which have long ago become obscured in the frost and wind and blowing snow. There is nothing else to delineate your landscape. Remember you are at sea, far off shore, or in the middle of the flattest part of the storming Sahara; you are on top of the world,s largest ice cap, alone. Your chances of dieing now, are superb.
On the 16Th of this month, unbeknownst to Steve, or anyone else up at camp, two of the camp staff went for a joy ride on snow machines. Maybe they even had had something to drink. They went out into fresh winds- not yet gale force. They followed the bright black flags down to the end of the ski way ducking behind the wind screens, exhilerated and then, ideling the engines at the far end, they were overcome with the immidate knowledge that they had better go back. But they lost one another and themselves. The mechanic stopped when he knew he was lost and dug a hole with the shovel that had, by luck, been on the back of his machine. After 16 hours living like a sled dog on the trail, he dug himslef out, started up his machine and went back to camp where he was shocked to learn that his friend was not home.The other man, the man now in the burn center of the University of California, at Davis, kept going. In fact, his machine, when found 3 days later, was far away from the ski way; you will have to forgive me for not being able to cite the exact distance, but roughly 13 miles, and was run out of gas. As soon as it was known that a person was missing out on the ice cap, Steve launched a search and rescue mission involving every resource they had. For three days he was beside the phone and radio maintianing communcation links; catching only short naps, he continued with the neseccary camp duties required of him while commiserating with and encouraging the three remaining crew to remain hopeful.
The only news story I could find relating this incident was published by Fox news, who repeated the National Science Foundation's blurb. Giving no names, other than, NASA, the NSF, the Royal Danish Air force, "people in Kangerlussuaq", and, the 109Th Air National Guard, I found it outrageous that the photo they slectected, encaptioned, "Ariel view of the ice cap" was a floating ice berg. If you watch this crap, shame on you for being so unintelligent-you are probably still trying to figure out what the differences are between a runway, and a ski way.
After 60 hours, the lost man was found. He was spotted by a colluege of ours, a man of both Danish and Inuit ancestry. A man named, Basse. Basse and I spoke on the phone a few days after the lost man was found. Basses described to me what he was looking for as being what is known as a body drift. He happened to be driving a tracked snow cat when he noticed a "speck on the windhseild -but it wasn't a speck". He kept his eyes on the mark and as they neared the body drift, for after 50 hours lost man was presumed to be dead lost man, the "body drift", stood up! He was 12 miles from camp.
The damage done, was mostly to his hands. Leather, thinsualte lined mittens with no cuffs had slid down below the wrist bone and were no longer able to be pulled up, once the hunting stage of cold (as low as minus 50 with wind chill) had set into the fingers. After this, ischemia occurs, which is loss of blood flow. Next, cells begin to die. When his clothes were cut off of him, inside the warmth of the station, his mittens and socks were not among the articles removed. Ice crystals held them to flesh. Lost man, thought to be dead man, now found man, was medivaced first, to the hospital in Nuuk, (the capitol of Greenland) and later, to the UC Davis burn center near his family. Last I heard, he had gone in for a surgical procedure; a final analysis of the vascular and cellular damage sustained before what we are all presuming to be amputations of both hands from mid wrist down.
Over 4000 years ago, the Inuit migrated to Greenland form North America. They developed senses which enabled them to survive sea ice travel, long dark winters subsisting off of raw meat, isolation- stymied only by mythological visitors: the northern lights, understood to be the spirits of their ancestors, senses that were accute and as critical as instincts. Basse and I have spoken a few times about the knowelged of his people's past and the responsibilities of being aware still, divided by intersecting aspects of modern times. I listened to him well. As soon as I heard that he had gone up to the ice cap, a place no ancient Greenlandic person ever would have gone-for there is nothing there to offer the living, other than death; I knew he would find the man he was looking for. I dint know that he would find him alive.
To give some perspective on how the people of Greenland view this story, I could find no mention of it in their news. It is no where as near as extraordinairy as recent findings of methane gas or integrating schools with non native speakers. To them, it must be not so much a moment's story- now told between family over cell phone or via email, as it is a permission slip into recollection; an ability to beleive again in a past now thought to be more incredible than real. Life goes on. Back at home In Kangerlussuaq, on the west coast of Greenland, Basse sips his coffee, plays with his kids, surfs the hundreds of thousands of satellite channels on his wide screen TV and gazes out at the changing fjord: it is begining to melt, slowly. He might even be thinking about trying again to grow a lawn this summer. Or maybe he is thining about a speck, on a vast, white, seeminlgy endless surface of 40 below where someone from the spirit world lingered- just long enough, to help show a lost, white man, his blundering way home.

Saturday, April 11, 2009

Defrost

This picture of Steve, standing on the Greenlandic ice cap, looks cold-too cold for bees-, but is at least: sunny and bright. Steve reports that things at camp are moving along well with a wonderful crew of four. They are preparing for the Summer influx on April 23, when an LC 130 cargo plane will land on the ski way ;delivering fruits and vegetables and people. Steve will leave then, for the coast where the emergence of spring will welcome him . Meanwhile, here in Welcome Valley, spring has sprung! I have been fortunate enough to be able to walk the four miles to the rural bus stop a few times this first week back in school. These early morning wakings allow for me to really notice what kind of an environment I am apart of- as does turning the compost. I notice, not only what is in bloom or what is in bud at the eye level, but observe the delicate castings off of those plants I cannot see in the upper canopy. I pause at the river to watch a beaver swim up current. I listen to the singing of the birds. I loose my breath for a moment as suddenly, where there was none the day before, an ocean of tiny white violets reflects back the dawn. I laugh at robins tugging at worms and I think about nothing.
Yesterday, I received two packages of bees. The packages are wooden shoe - box sized crates, with window screen sides. They contain: a can full of sugar syrup, roughly 10,000 worker bees (females) and a queen, sequestered in a cage of her own, plugged with a cork. My friend Lorena, herself a beekeeper, helped me empty the packaged bees into the hive boxes I had prepared. This is a weird operation for the novice; though I thought I knew what I was doing, I was rather haggard from my first week back at school and a spontaneous, 12 mile hike home the day before - the bus broke down - I was lucky Lorena was there with me. I pulled the syrup can out: bees began to fly. They were loud and sounded angry. I hadn't taped up my wrist cuffs or my pant legs. I didn't wear gloves. The bees crawled on my hands. One went up my pant leg. I remained calm and slowly pulled the queen box out. Lorena brought tiny marshmallows for replacing the cork with- the bees will eat through the marshmallow releasing their queen. I wedged the queen's cage in between the frames in the hive box and then inverted the package of bees over the queen. Then I put the lid on and walked very carefully, like a man with elephantitis (or so I would presume) over to the compost area to release my little companion who did not sting. The second pacakge went smoother, as most things do after dress rehersals.
Today, in between studying and turning the earth, talking on the phone, petting the cat, and ignoring the dishes, I checked on the bees. Honey bees tend not to fly when temperatures are below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Somewhere around 3pm the weather in the valley soared to 52 F. The bees were humming about and settling in; crawling in and out of their respective hives and orienting themselves to our humble estate. I placed extra sugar water jars in the hives along with one pollen patty each; food enough for the bees until the natural nectar bloom becomes sufficient forage.
I did not manage to plant the onion starts or seed potatoes, but the trillium and the rhubarb are up and the old apple tree will be white before the moon is half way gone.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Do your part to create a confidence virus!

"Hear the voice of the bard!
who present, past and future sees
whose ears have heard
the holy word
that walked among the ancient trees"

"O earth o earth return!
arise from out the dewy grass
night is worn
and the morn
rises from the slumberous mass"

William Blake. - 1794

If you are still feeling gloomy about the economy, I invite you to visit the following site. Published by the American psychological association's president, Dr James H Bray, this bit of intelligent thought is worthy of contemplation. I learned of this site from my psychology course and still visit it frequently for I find it offers a rather cognitive dimension to our society's behavioral traits, our contemporary issues, or "news".
http://www.apa.org/monitor/2009/03/pc.html (bare with me as I get this link to work)
Meanwhile, I walked through the woods along the right hand bank of the Middle Fork river this morning listening to the robins sing. If the robins are back in your neck of the woods, please remember to drive slowly along rural fields. There take off trajectory cannot out pace that of the hurried windshield. Now that I am walking the four miles one way to my bus stop, I am noticing some robins, worm still in beak, who have met their automobiled fate. But spring has indeed arrive in welcome valley. This does not mean it is still not freezing at night, or that it might not snow, but that the sun is much higher in the sky, the shadows longer and the potential warmth of the day significantly greater; even the swallows arrived late, yesterday afternoon.

Steve is still patiently awaiting better weather on the ice cap for his flight up to Summit (below in the links, there is a hyperlink called, WHO WE WORK FOR, showing summit station's weather etc). He wrote this morning saying he hoped to go for a long hike. There is 6 inches of snow in Kangerlussuaq where spring is but a short allegro composed for the grandeur of summer.
I sat in my chair after my walk this morning with my tea and looked out over the hills from which the sun would soon be shining. I was listening to Bach's Brandenburg concerto Nos 4 in G. really listening, and it seemed freshly composed that instant for the sun cracked over the tips of the trees and shone in upon my face and I smiled. May you all have a wonderful day.

Friday, March 20, 2009

Return of the blogger

Dear readers,
This post title is not creative but the picture is. In fact, I hope it inspires at least a little humor. The reason I selected this picture is because I felt I needed a rather neutral ice breaker to get things going again. Although I have not written one single post in the past five months, it was most certainly not due to having a submerged groin. I began college. I made a phone call to enquire about enrolling inn spring quarter three days prior to winter quarter's start up day. The kind receptionist asked, "are you available to begin this winter"? Of course I said yes. That following Monday morning i was tested and administered to and after registering for my classes was able to make it to my first class just one minute before it began. I dint really have the time to consider what i was doing, only why. Being human, we feel a need to define every thing we do with perimeters. Bees do not. Bees build waxen hexagonal honey comes because they must, not because they or any other busy body thinks they should. So it has begun with my schooling, omitting hexagonal wax. And so I am evolving along with my course work. I am now focusing on completing the voluminous amount of math classes required before I can declare an associated degree major. This is fine with me. I love math and am aiming for a transfer degree to Western Washington University, (our local four year University located, naturally, on top of the biggest hill in down town Bellingham, WA) in science. But which science? Physics. Yes, physics. Why? Because we do things which are governed by laws of nature; bees make hexagonal combs, light travels in waves, gravity allows things to exist without floating away. I think that I want to teach. I know that I I want to learn and I want to grow our own food, even oats and rye and millet. Id like to be able to watch all of the seasons change from one location on the planet. Id like to be able to keep laying hens and maybe even someday get a goat. Steve and I love the thrilling adventure the Polar programs afford us and we love working to support scientific research, but we are privy to the fact that in ten more years time, we will have been doing seasonal contract work for 30 years , and will want to enjoy the work we are putting into our one acre estate; the fruit and nut trees, the berries, the (soon to start up honey bees), the flower gardens and most of all; our wonderful community of bee keeping, food growing, friends. Therefore, a new career objective instills. Lets face it, fixing log trucks or city buses for a living when I'm in my 50s and 60s does not have much of an appeal. Teaching college level mathematics or science does! And when I'm relay old and want not to work very much outside the estate, I can subsitute at the local High School in Deming, only a bike ride away.
I am about to finish my first quarter with a 4.0. I don't even yet know yet, exactly what that means, other than its what universities like to see when one applies and hopes for a scholarship. Spring break begins next Wednesday and I have a long list of gardening and grounds keeping projects tojoyfully attend to, not to mention repairing an inherited 1967 Mercedes Benz sedan which Steve's uncle Russel gave us. I hope to have it running well enough that I can pick Steve up at the airport in it accompanied by Uncle Russel who will be 92.
Speaking of Stephen, he has gone off to Greenland for the spring and summer. He just arrived in Kangerlussuaq via Denmark yesterday and will be waiting there at the KISS building (where we lived and worked all of last spring-summer season) until the weather improves enough up on the ice cap for the small twin prop to fly in. He is filling in for a person who was medically evacuated less than 2 weeks ago This was not in the cards, so to speak, but since it allows for Steve to return home earlier than originally planed (July 17th as compared to Aug 20th) we both decided he should go for it! He has just written me telling me that he has gone out for the day as a volunteer with some biologists to collect reindeer urine. The biologists will measure these samples to see exactly what state the caribou's diet is in. I will try my best to keep a Steve update running within the body of this blog. I will try my best to keep this blog running, but it might be difficult at times as course loads oscillate.
I hope everyone out there is doing what they find to be fun and enjoying life.
If you have a set up which enbales you to watch movies, and have an ecclectic movie rental rescource such as a library, or netflix (sp?) look for MINDWALK. In this film, a physicist gives her, Systems Theory dissertation in a most unassuming way; as three strangers walk about Mont ST Michelle discussing life.
One worker (female) bee flys over 20,000 miles in her lifetime of just six weeks.

Kangerlussuaq's golf club house

Kangerlussuaq's golf club house
should we wait for the musk ox to play through?

dwarf fireweed

dwarf fireweed
Greenlandic natl. flower

Lake Ferguson site

Lake Ferguson site
summer home

ventifacts still with ice: march 2008

ventifacts still with ice: march 2008
circles of time

ventifact rock

ventifact rock
scuptures of weather

headwaters of the watson river

headwaters of the watson river
this is not a moulin

glacial edge

glacial edge
spring calving

rhododendron, Laponica

rhododendron, Laponica
a bonsai effect in the wild

Russel's glacier

Russel's glacier
water, cave, serac

Dye II

Dye II
me and Steve and Raven

sled dogs

sled dogs
happy quick
"Beware the fallacies into which undisciplined thinkers most easily fall, they are the real distorting prisims of human nature".
Francis bacon

wish you were here

wish you were here

chickweed

chickweed

arctic harebells

arctic harebells
edible, taste mildly nutty

Denis with "oil" and "failing"

Denis with "oil" and "failing"
"it is a happy life"

Lunch break

Lunch break
wish you were here with us!

"Main Street" Kangerlussuaq

"Main Street" Kangerlussuaq
looking north from the bridge, KISS bldg. is red.

Watson River Gorge Bridge

Watson River Gorge Bridge
watch as the level ct.s to rise over this season!

sled crossing

sled crossing

sking across lake furgusen

sking across lake furgusen

last winter's musk ox hunt

last winter's musk ox hunt
heads awaiting further processing

Raven's food put in

Raven's food put in
Hey! they've got fig newmans!

sunset over the Watson r.

sunset over the Watson r.

sunday bike ride west

sunday bike ride west